Meghalaya, with its altitudes of over 4,000 feet above sea level across many places and a unique climate, has been producing some of the most distinctive high quality coffee in the country. Commercial plantation of coffee is relatively new and limited in Meghalaya and dates back to 1954 when coffee gardens were first established by the Soil and Water Conservation (S&WC) Department at Umling in Ri-Bhoi district, Lumshnong in East Jaintia Hills district, and Tura in West Garo Hills district. Today, it is grown in 6 districts across the state, covering a total area of approximately 300 hectares with an estimated yield of 200 metric tonnes in 2016-17.
Coffee is one of the most popular beverages around the world with immense cultural importance in many societies. It is also a high value commodity whose cultivation, processing and export activities are key to economies of many countries as it is a way of providing livelihood to a significant number of people worldwide. Building upon the growing popularity of coffee-based beverages in India, a small-scale coffee enterprise known as “Smoky Falls tribe Coffee” from the state has created a name for itself. Sourcing whole beans from local plantations in Meghalaya, the enterprise roasts the beans to produce high quality ground coffee which is then packaged and sold through the brand’s online portal and at their cafe. The name “Smoky Falls” was inspired from the numerous cascading waterfalls that are a unique characteristic feature of landscapes in Meghalaya.
BIRTH OF SMOKY FALLS TRIBE COFFEE
Smoky Falls tribe Coffee was founded by Dasumarlin Majaw and her father Dondor Giri Nongkhlaw. Hailing from the locality of Lawjynriew in the city of Shillong, Dasumarlin traces her entrepreneurial journey back to her grandmother who often brought coffee from Tyrna, a small village in Shella Bholaganj, East Khasi Hills. She would bring the coffee to Shillong and using the traditional method, she would brew the beverage. This not only propelled an interest in Dasumarlin towards coffee making; but, also inspired her father, a retired government official. Thus, coffee making became a family passion and tradition.
Their coffee business took a new turn when Mr. Dondor decided to attend a training programme at a private institution in Bangalore and Chikmagalur. There he was able to acquire advanced knowledge on coffee production, processing and business management. Upon his return, the father-daughter duo invested in a processing machine. They then identified coffee bean sources from plantations in the Khasi Hills, Ri-Bhoi and Ri-War areas, ensuring that they not only received the required volumes but also good quality beans from a few selected locations. In 2009, they started a coffee shop in Nongthymmai, Shillong, called “Black and White Coffee Shop”. The shop sold a variety of coffee beverages including the popular Cappuccino, Espresso and Latte. However, the outlet did not make enough profit as demand for coffee beverages was low and eventually had to be shut. They, therefore, shifted their focus only on selling roasted and ground coffee as a packaged product. This led to the establishment of Smoky Falls tribe Coffee in 2015.
REVIVING A LOST TRADITION
Mr. Dondor explained that coffee plantation in the Khasi Hills has been in practice for a long time but due to lack of documentation and demand for coffee, little is known about the indigenous coffee planting practices. One of the few sources of information is the 1908 book titled “Coffee Cultivation in Khasi Hills” by B.C. Basu.
Smoky Falls tribe Coffee considers its coffee to be fairly unique because it is not mixed with additional ingredients such as chicory: the coffee-chicory mix is the most widespread form of coffee available in Southern India. Today, Smoky Falls tribe Coffee sources its coffee beans from a number of locations including Syltham, Mawlatang, Umsning and Marngar. However, Tyrna still remains their primary source. Again, sourcing coffee from within Meghalaya comes with its share of challenges like while collecting beans from coffee plants growing in the wild, pictures have to be used to help the collectors identify the plants. Over time, the engagement between Smoky Falls tribe Coffee and the communities from which it sources its coffee has led to greater interest in engaging in coffee planting and processing related activities.
Mr. Dondor emphasized that the entire process of coffee making is time consuming and requires constant attention to detail to ensure quality, right from cultivation of coffee plants to the processing of coffee beans. Infestation of Stem borer (insects that eat leaves) and Leaf rust (caused by air pollution) can result in huge loss of plants. For the coffee sold by Smoky Falls tribe Coffee, Mr. Dondor encourages farmers to use organic fertilizers and engages experts to train farmers on how to pluck coffee beans.
To Mrs. Dasumarlin and her father, Smoky Falls tribe Coffee is not just a business but a family tradition. They have not employed any workers at their workplace and neither have they approached the government for any assistance. All investments into the business have been made personally by them.
Until recently, most of their coffee was being promoted by friends and relatives through word of mouth. In 2016 they started taking online orders for coffee and began promoting their coffee through social media and other digital platforms. Today, their coffee is sold to buyers from various locations across India including Gurgaon, Chennai and Mumbai. Their coffee is also sold in other countries such as New Zealand, South Africa, USA, Australia, Canada, France and Belgium.
For online customers, two varieties of roast coffee- “Light Roast” and “Medium Roast” – and 3 grades of grind coffee - Fine, Medium and Coarse – are offered. A price range of Rs. 130 to Rs. 1,280 is fixed for net weight range of 50 gm, 150 gm and 200 gm. They would also be adding the place of origin of their coffee onto the label of packaging to bring visibility and create brand value of coffee plantations in Meghalaya.
RECEPTION
Mrs. Dasumarlin explains that the reception to their coffee brand has been very encouraging, especially from seasoned coffee drinkers outside the country. For local people, the taste for coffee is still developing as Meghalaya is not traditionally a coffee drinking state. Lack of proper brewing equipment and knowledge also means that most people who purchase their coffee prepare it in the same way as they make instant coffee, resulting in poorly prepared and ill-tasting coffee.
The father-daughter duo hope that coffee culture will soon grow in Meghalaya, especially in Shillong. In the near future, they plan to collaborate with the government to set up small cafe outlets in state’s tourist locations and at airports. This would allow them to scale their business and take it to the next level.